Determining Charge Time for Your Battery

The more discharged that your battery is, the longer it will take to recharge it. Batteries usually take several hours to recharge; if the battery is severely discharged (12.2 volts or less for an flooded battery) then it may take up to 12 hours or more to recharge. While recharging any battery, if the battery becomes hot when you touch it, stop charging it (a battery being charged should not get above 125 Fahrenheit).  It is preferred to slow charge all batteries, slow charging rates vary depending on the battery’s type and capacity. When charging an automotive battery, 10-amps or less is considered a slow charge. Fast charging is NOT recommended, 20-amps or above is generally considered a fast charge. Repeated fast charging an automotive battery may overcharge the battery and reduce service life.

Step 1:
To determine how long it will take to recharge your battery, you must determine how much reserve capacity your battery has (refer to manufactures specs). In order to calculate the amount of amp-hours in a battery, the rule of thumb is to multiply the reserve capacity by 0.6. For example, if you have an automotive/flooded battery with 100 minutes reserve capacity, multiplied 100 by 0.6 = your battery would have approximately 60 amp-hours (at the 20-hour rate).

Step 2:
Use a voltmeter to measure the open circuit voltage of the battery (see chart below for state of charge). Open circuit voltage is the voltage of the battery with no load or disconnected from any circuit. Do NOT charge the battery before you test the open circuit voltage. If the voltmeter shows a voltage reading of 12.2 volts then the battery is approximately 50% charged. Since the battery is 50% charged, this means that there is approximately half of the 60 amp-hours in the battery or 30 amp-hours. Therefore it is necessary to put about 30 amp hours plus 20% more to compensate for the internal resistance in the battery for a total of 30 amps x 0.2 = 36 amp-hours to fully charge your battery.

Step 3:
If you charge your battery at a 10-amp rate and you need to replace 36 amp-hours in the battery. To determine how long (in hours) you will need to charge your battery, divided 36 by 10 = 3.6 or 3.6 hours to recharge your battery.

A 12 volt / 10 amp 3-stage automatic charger is the best charger for most automotive batteries. Unfortunately most chargers do not output the entire 10 amps during the charge cycle, because it automatically limits the voltage and the amperage during the charge cycle. You may actually only see about 1/2 the output over the time period that you are actually charging the battery. For that reason, it can easily take 12 hours or more to fully recharge the battery. Even after 12 hours, because of the reduced voltage, the battery may require more charging to get it 100% charged.

Step 4:
After the battery has cooled to room temperature use a voltmeter or check the cells with a hydrometer to determine the battery is fully charged.

The chart below is for quick reference, the method described above is the best way to determine how long it will take to charge your battery. The chart below shows how to determine the amount of time need to charge a battery based on the batteries CCA, open circuit voltage and charge rate. Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator does not recommend charging your battery above 10 amps. 

You should always wear personal protection when charging and/or handling all batteries. The data and information contained herein are intended for use by persons possessing proper technical skill and knowledge, as they may deem appropriate and at their own risk.

 

Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator assumes no liability whatsoever for results obtained or loss or damage incurred as a result of application of any data or information presented herein. Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator believes the information contained herein is accurate as of its publication date. Information contained herein is subject to change without notice.

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How a Battery is Made

Batteries are made of five basic components:

1.  A resilient plastic container
2. Positive and negative internal plates made of lead
3. Plate separators made of porous synthetic material
4. Electrolyte, a dilute solution of sulfuric acid and water, better known as battery acid
5. Lead terminals, the connection point between the battery and whatever it powers

The manufacturing process begins with the production of a plastic container and cover.  Most automotive battery containers and their covers are made of polypropylene.  For a typical 12-volt car battery, the case is divided into six sections, or cells, shaped somewhat like one row in an ice cube tray.  The cover is dropped on and sealed when the battery is finished.

The process continues with the manufacture of grids from lead or an alloy of lead and other metals.  A battery must have positive and negative plates to conduct a charge.

Next a paste mixture of lead oxide - which is powdered lead and other materials - sulfuric acid and water is applied to the grids.  Expander material made of powdered sulfates is added to the paste to produce negative plates.

Inside the battery, the pasted positive and negative plates must be separated to prevent short circuits.  Separators are thin sheets of porous, insulating material used as spacers between the positive and negative plates.  Fine pores in the separators allow electrical current to flow between the plates while preventing short circuits.

In the next step, positive plates are paired with negative plates and separators.

This unit is called an element and there is one element per battery cell, or compartment in the container.  Elements are dropped into the cells in the battery case.  The cells are connected with a metal that conducts electricity.  The lead terminals, or posts, are then welded on.

The battery is then filled with electrolyte - or battery acid - a mixture of sulfuric acid and water and the cover is attached.  The battery is checked for leaks.

The final step is formation.  During this step, the battery terminals are connected to a source of electricity and the battery is charged for many hours.  When the battery is fully formed, it moves to another line where the case is cleaned, if necessary, and the labels are attached.

If you have any questions about your batteries, call or stop in and see one of our knowledgeable technicians at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator for a free inspection of your battery, starting and charging system!

Are Maintenance Free Batteries REALLY Maintenance Free?

As summer approaches here in Florida and temperatures are on the rise, the batteries in your car, boat or RV may be getting ready to say their goodbyes.  Many times when our customers bring in their dead batteries we find that they have little to no water left in them.  This is almost always followed up with, "But it says maintenance free on it."  In this article I will try to give a basic explanation of what "maintenance free" means and why it doesn't apply to most situations.

The lead-acid battery was invented in 1859 and while improvements in the manufacturing process have been made, the basic design has changed very little since the 1890's.  One major improvement however was the creation of the lead-calcium plate in 1935.  Lead-calcium plates have a lower self discharge rate than its predecessor and significantly reduced "off-gassing", which was an issue with earlier design lead-antimony batteries, meaning that even in ideal conditions the battery would need the fluid level maintained.  In ideal conditions, the lead-calcium design does not need the fluid level maintained due to the extreme reduction of off-gassing, thus making it "maintenance free."  

Let me reiterate, IDEAL CONDITIONS.  Under the hood of your vehicle in the middle of summer when the outside air temperature is 95 plus degrees is far from ideal conditions.  Batteries tucked away in your boat underneath hatches or in engine rooms with no airflow and extreme temperatures are far from ideal conditions.  

While this is far from a comprehensive and detailed history of the lead-acid battery it does answer the question we get on a weekly basis here at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator, "Is this a maintenance free battery?"  Well technically, yes...but realistically, no.  The fluid level should be checked on all of your automotive, marine and golf cart batteries on a regular basis regardless of whether "maintenance free" is on the label or not.  The only true way to have a maintenance free battery is to purchase AGM or gel batteries which have no free flowing electrolyte inside the batteries.  Our experienced battery technicians at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator would be happy to answer any questions you may have and can get you the right battery for any application.

Take Care of Your Batteries and They'll Take Care of You!

Nothing is more frustrating than heading out for a great round of golf with friends and be stranded at the 4th hole because of dead batteries!  The same goes for a fun-filled afternoon on the boat, there's nothing quite like the embarrassment and hassle of finding out your boat batteries are dead when you arrive at the water!  The number one reason we see for premature battery failure here at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator is LACK OF MAINTENANCE.  Maintaining batteries is definitely not on the top of the list of fun things to do, but if you follow these few simple steps your batteries will perform reliably for many years!

1. Clean the corrosion from the terminals using a SMALL amount of baking soda.  Sprinkle the baking soda on the terminal connections and add a small amount of water to it, the baking soda will foam up and then you can rinse away the corrosion.  If the build up is heavy, a small brass brush can help.  *NOTE* Take care to NOT get any baking soda INSIDE the battery, it will neutralize the acid and damage the battery.
2. Check the water level in the battery.  Remove the battery cell caps if your battery has them.  The water level should be 3/4 to one inch below the lip of the battery for marine and automotive batteries and up to the bottom of the lip that extends down in to the golf cart batteries.  *NOTE* DO NOT overfill your batteries as the acid that spills out could damage battery trays or anything else it comes in contact with.
3. Make sure battery connections are tight.  Over time, vibration can loosen the battery connection causing intermittent electrical problems and possibly damage the battery terminals.  *NOTE* DO NOT over tighten the connection as this could cause damage to the battery post or terminal.

Should you have any questions regarding proper battery maintenance, feel free to contact our staff at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator at 772-287-0301; however following these 3 simple steps will definitely prolong the life of your batteries and eliminate costly premature battery failure.  Remember, take care of your batteries and they'll take care of you! 

Choosing Value over Price, Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries

One of my favorite quotes of all time is "Price is what you pay, value is what you get." - Warren Buffet.  While this quote can be applied to many things, let's look at how it directly applies to your battery purchase and what your thought process should be going in to that purchase.

In our last article, Comparing Apples to Apples, Cold Cranking Amps, Marine Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity you learned that while batteries can look identical they can have very different performance ratings.  Some things you should ask yourself when deciding if AGM is right for you are:

1. How long am I keeping this car, boat, etc?
2. Does the application I am putting the battery in sit unused for extended periods of time?
3. Is my battery in a location that makes maintenance impossible?
4. Do I have accessories that put a higher than normal load on my battery?

If you are planning on keeping your vehicle, boat, RV, etc. for longer than two years you should be considering an AGM battery.  The AGM battery is more vibration resistant, requires zero maintenance, increased CCA, increased reserve capacity, longer warranty period and has a significantly increased life expectancy over its wet cell cousin.

Flooded Wet Cell Battery

AGM Battery

If you are looking for the best value, I would encourage you to take a look at AGM batteries that would fit your application.  AGM simply stands for "Absorbed Glass Mat" meaning that instead of having free flowing electrolyte as you would find in a normal wet cell (flooded) battery, the AGM battery uses a fiberglass mat separator that absorbs the electrolyte which in turn means more electrolyte can be added to the same physical size battery.  All of this value does come at a price that is roughly two to three times that of the standard flooded battery.  There are different types of AGM batteries depending on your application and budget.  Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator can walk you through the different options and help you decide which battery would give you the best value.  When it comes to batteries no quote could ever be more accurate, "Price is what you pay, value is what you get."

David Jouppi - Manager
Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator

Comparing Apples to Apples, Cold Cranking Amps, Marine Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity

Now that we have established what "group size" means, we will move to the next decision that you must make when purchasing a battery.  The first thing you will notice as a consumer is the wide range of prices there are for the same group size battery.  In order to make an informed decision you must know how to compare the different brands to find the best value.  First we will look at starting batteries.  Starting or cranking batteries are designed to give a short burst of energy to start your vehicle, boat, lawn tractor, etc.  The rating you should be looking for on this type of battery is the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).  Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 degrees F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts.  Batteries of the same group size can have very different CCA ratings, this is where you as a consumer need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples before just choosing the least expensive battery.  While it may fit your application in physical size, it may not be enough CCA for your application which could ultimately lead to premature failure.

The next type of batteries we will look at is the marine starting and deep cycle battery.  Here again, you will find an array of batteries that look the same physically but are very different!  When making your purchase of a marine battery you want to look for the Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) and the Reserve Capacity (RC).  Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) are measured at 32 degrees F.  The reserve capacity (RC) of a marine battery is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts, for example:  your battery has a RC of 145 minutes @ 25A and your accessories (lights, gps, depth finder, livewell/baitwell pumps, etc.) add up to a 25A draw, in this situation with a new battery you will get 145 minutes of run time until your battery is discharged.  If your draw is less than 25A your run time will increase and likewise if you draw more than 25A your run time decreases.

Just like with your starting batteries you must make sure to compare apples to apples here as well.  Just because a battery "looks" the same doesn't mean it is.  You will be saving yourself time and money in the long run by comparing the MCA and RC of different batteries before just buying "one that fits."  If you're looking for the best value, your decision making regarding your batteries is not done yet!  In our next article, "Choosing Value over Price, Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) vs. Wet Cell (Flooded) Batteries", we will walk you through the process of deciding which is right for you!

Here at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator we know choosing the proper battery can be a daunting task to say the least, our team of battery experts can help take the stress out of that process.  We carry a complete line of Exide Auto and Marine batteries, Crown Golf Cart batteries and Northstar AGM batteries with pure lead technology.  Please don't hesitate to contact us with any battery related questions you may have!

David Jouppi - Manager
Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator

What is the "Group Size" of a Battery and What Does that Mean?

If you have ever had to buy an automotive or marine battery you have most likely been asked:  "What group size do you have?"  If you have no idea what that means then this is the article for you!

While it sounds like a very technical term, it simply is referring to the physical dimensions of your battery, that's it!  It has nothing to do with the cold cranking amps (CCA), where the terminals are located, the reserve capacity, the manufacturer, none of that.  Strictly the length, width and height of your battery.  This system was implemented by Battery Council International (BCI) to standardize and "group" together batteries that were dimensionally the same.  Thanks to this system of sizing, a group 24 for example, manufactured by Exide which is 10 1/4" x 6 13/16" x 9", will be the same physical size as a group 24 manufactured by Northstar Battery.  

Armed with this information, you don't even need a legible label on your old battery, if it's faded or missing completely just give our team at Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator the length, width and height of your old battery and we will know exactly what group size you have with no guess work!  

This is NOT a way to compare the power and/or quality of the battery.  That is done through a comparison of cold cranking amps (CCA) and reserve capacity (RC).  To read more about these ratings and what you should be looking for check out our next article, "Comparing Apples to Apples, Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity."

David Jouppi - Manager
Treasure Coast Battery & Alternator